Journal Article 沖縄島におけるサンゴ礁海浜の汀線砕波波高に関する推定式
A Quantitative Prediction for Shore Break Height on Coral Beaches with a Fringing Reef, Okinawa Island

青木, 久  ,  武石, 裕  ,  前門, 晃  ,  Aoki, Hisashi  ,  Takeishi, Yu  ,  Maekado, Akira  ,  東京学芸大学  ,  モバイルクリエイト株式会社  ,  琉球大学

(15)  , pp.1 - 10 , 2015-06-25 , 沖縄地理学会 , The Okinawa Geographical Society
ISSN:0916-6084
NCID:AN10157731
Description
Field measurements were carried out on Yomitan coast with a fringing reef in Okinawa Island, Japan to investigate the relationship between the shore break height (H_b), the reef width(W), the wave height (H') and water depth(h) at the reef edge. The ratio of the shore break height to the wave height at the reef edge, H_b/H’, which denotes the degree of the reduction of wave height on a reef, was found to decrease with increasing W, and to decrease with decreasing h. This result indicates that the reduction of wave height on a reef is greatly controlled by morphological features of a fringing reef. Using the results of the present study data, an equation connecting H_b and H', h, and W, is derived from the regression analysis as follows: H_b = 111.7 (h/W) H'.
Full-Text

http://okinawa-repo.lib.u-ryukyu.ac.jp/bitstream/20.500.12001/21566/1/No15p001.pdf

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