||高島ちぢみの触感の評価【特集論文 : ハートウエアの展開可能性】
Evaluation of the Tactile Feelings of Takashima Crepe Fabrics
與倉, 弘子髙橋, 志郎
8 , 2015-07 , 滋賀大学環境総合研究センター
Traditional cotton crepe fabric has been used for menʼs underwear for about 100 years. It is suitable for hot humidsummer conditions and is currently produced, using traditional and eco-friendly processing techniques, in Takashima,Shiga Prefecture, Japan. Crepe fabrics are constructed by using hard twisted weft yarns, resulting in a wrinkledfabric surface. The globalization of the clothing industry in recent years has increased the demand for cotton crepefabrics used in womenʼs soft dresses. Using cotton crepe fabrics in various types of Western-style garments isexpected to help preserve traditional textile design techniques.The aim of this study is to show how the female students (age 18 to 24 years) evaluate the tactile feelings of cotton crepefabrics. We collected 24 typical crepe fabrics with different crepe structures to clarify the effect of surface crinkling onsensory evaluations. The tactile feeling of crepe fabrics was assessed by female students using the SD method, under twodifferent conditions: with and without being able to see the fabric. The sensory tests were performed in summer andwinter. We used the mean score of the subjective assessments as the tactile feeling of the fabrics.The female students preferred fabrics that felt “soft”, “smooth”, and “wet”. Although the feeling of “shari” (crispness)is a unique feeling that provides a cool sensation, female students did not have a strong preference for it. Theirsensory evaluations showed similar tendencies for both tactile and tactile-visual assessments, and in both winter andsummer. The subjective hand value of preference with regard to crepe fabrics was closely related to the fabricthickness T0: small value for T0 was associated with high scores for these subjective hand values. The fine piquéfabric was preferred more than the other crepe fabrics. We conclude that the feelings of shari and hari (stiffness thatresists draping) should be maintained in crepe fabrics, and that the fine piqué structure is a positive feature thatmakes the fabric suitable for soft womenʼs dresses.